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Howto make hoops for goaltimate (diy goaltimate kit)

posted 2006.06.20 Tue
One of my favorite pastimes is playing Ultimate. But sometimes you just can round up enough people to play ultimate. When you don't have enough people or field space for ultimate, goaltimate is a viable alternative. It is played on a smaller field with 4on4 instead of 7 on 7.

But to play goaltimate, one needs a "hoop". So what to do? You can buy one made out of a special shatter-resistant sort of PVC at the goaltimate website. Somewhat nicer are the "dischoop" aluminum, shock-corded poles. I've seen both, but didn't want to shell out the $200+ dollars for either of these solutions. So I made a $26 set.

A goaltimate hoop is 32 feet long. When set up, the two ends should be 18 feet apart, and the center should rise to about 11 feet.

I made my set out of normal PVC (which I've heard has the tendency to shatter at weird times, so I've heard, but yet to experience). To get 32 feet and to have something that is luggable I want 8 pieces at approximately 4 feet (not including overlap). I went down to the local hardware store to look at the 1 inch tubing. You want to get the tubing that has the built-in female end, since that provides about two inches of overlapping. If you use the female-female couplings, you only have about an inch of overlap for both poles (which I've heard can be problematic since you need to bend the hoop quite a bit and can lead to poles popping out).

Try to avoid couplings like these!

One problem was that the variety with the built-in female end only came in 20 foot lengths. I'd need to buy 8 of them and cut them down. At ~$6 per length it would come out to ~$50 (with a LOT of wasted leftover PVC). Hmmmm. I also needed two 36inch rebar segments to hold up the poles (you hammer these 6-8 inches into the grass to hold the poles up).

I decided that $50 was too much to spend and was thinking about using the female-female couplings. But then I went to another local store that had the 20 foot lengths (with the built-in female connecter) and they said they could cut the PVC for me (using a big cross-cut saw) as well as only charge me by the foot. They ended up charging me $26 for the cut PVC and rebar together. (Another hint is that if you need to cut the PVC, use a hacksaw instead of a pipe-cutter, since the pipe-cutter might cause damage to the joint somehow... this is hearsay as well). The individual pieces ended up being 50 inches long (4 feet + 2 inches for overlap). (I don't think that they actually overlap 2 inches, but it is close).

(For the mathematically inclined here's the formula to get the exact length 8*a - 7*b = 32 (8 pieces of pvc total length of a, minus 7 times the length of the overlapping intersections (b) should come to 32 feet. Plug in b and solve for a. For 50 inch sections, it comes out that the overlap should be 2.5 inches, which is about an inch too long but oh well...)

My rebar came rusted, so I also bought a wire brush and some rust-resistant paint to paint it with. Spent ten minutes brushing it, then paint a few layers on it.

Buy a couple sets of cones and you should be good to go.

Here's a few hints for setting up the field:

  • Since the base is 18 feet apart, first connect 4 of the poles and lay them down flat. This should be 16 feet. Stick out your foot on one end (my feet are about 1 foot long) and hammer in a piece of rebar. Repeat on the other side. That should be around 18 feet.
  • Put the rest of the pieces of the pole together. Have one person grab each end of the pole and slide them on the rebar at the same time.

Enjoy your new kit. I played with my family (some of whom had played some recreation ultimate before), all had a good time, and many commented that they liked it better than ultimate.

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1. a random John left...
2006.06.20 Tue 3:03 pm

You should probably add a photo of your disassembled kit to make it really clear what you've put together.


2. Rick Conner left...
2006.08.12 Sat 1:37 am

Matt,

I am glad you enjoyed playing Goaltimate. I played Ultimate for 25 years before I launched Goalty and I can say that most people, after playing Goaltimate for an extended period of time, do enjoy it more than Ultimate.

Take care and once your PVC starts to break down, and I assure you it will, give me a call and we can work out a discount for a kit that will last. How are you carrying all of the Goalty equipment?

Best regards, Rick Conner 877-462-5123 - toll free


3. LJ left...
2007.03.09 Fri 7:42 am :: http://www.jaxul.com

Hey Thanks for the Blog......I searched for "How to make a Goaltimate Kit" and your blog was the only one I could find, other than the $200 jobs.

I play Ultimate mostly.........when I was in Atlanta, GA they had a Goaltimate spring league which I decided I should try......I really enjoyed Goaltimate (Ultimate is still my first love). Anyway, I've moved to Jacksonville, FL and would like to incoporate some Goaltimate at Pick-up when numbers are low........You're DIY kit, was just what I was looking for...Thanks again. -LJ


4. Stephen Myers left...
2007.05.11 Fri 4:31 pm

You say to avoid the female-female couplings - have you noticed that the female-male pipe works better? If so, why?


5. Stephen Myers left...
2007.05.11 Fri 4:32 pm

Oops. You can ignore that question. I read a little more closely this time.


6. Braknstuf left...
2007.06.06 Wed 11:11 am

You may want to consider revising your next hoop to use an odd number of pole segments as this will make a stronger hoop. The point on the pole with the highest stress is at the top of the arch - in your design this point is a joint - making it the most failure prone. Most top quality tents us odd segmented poles for this same reason.


7. Matt left...
2007.06.06 Wed 11:34 am

Braknstuf -

Thanks for your comment, very good point. I never actually thought about that... (sad because I used to sell tents). I'm pretty sure the goaltimate (yellow) poles have the joint at the apex. Not sure about the dischoops ones (though I'd assume that they do as well) (Since Franks DIY instructions do).

I have 2 extra poles and it would be an easy conversion to cut them down a bit and use 9 poles instead of 8. (For portability sake, I don't know that you want any fewer poles than 8, since at 50 inches, they are already a tight fit in a car/trunk). For those interested in 9 pole varieties (instead of my 8 pole), you need to cut the poles 44 inches long (that's including 1.5 inches of overlap).

I used my kit last weekend and have yet to have the hoop break (I mean have the joints come apart). (Though I know it happens because I've seen the yellow ones do it). Admittedly, my set sees very limited use.


8. Riley left...
2007.07.28 Sat 3:22 pm

Hey thanks, this really helped. I just got done building and putting up my kit. One thing I recommend is when you first put it in, is that you hammer the joints in, I had a lot of hit and misses till i realized I should hammer those in and it really helped. My kit costed me $16 and you saved me lots on money doing this and I would like to thank you again. I got some pictures if anyone wants to see it :)


9. Ben left...
2007.09.20 Thu 3:12 pm

A used golf bag (from Goodwill) works great for lugging around my homemade set


10. cragnor left...
2008.05.03 Sat 12:43 pm

Hey, this is useful information.

Might be worth cross listing at the goaltimate wikipedia site. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Goaltimate

Best, Craig