
But to play goaltimate, one needs a "hoop". So what to do? You can buy one made out of a special shatter-resistant sort of PVC at the goaltimate website. Somewhat nicer are the "dischoop" aluminum, shock-corded poles. I've seen both, but didn't want to shell out the $200+ dollars for either of these solutions. So I made a $26 set.
A goaltimate hoop is 32 feet long. When set up, the two ends should be 18 feet apart, and the center should rise to about 11 feet.
I made my set out of normal PVC (which I've heard has the tendency to shatter at weird times, so I've heard, but yet to experience). To get 32 feet and to have something that is luggable I want 8 pieces at approximately 4 feet (not including overlap). I went down to the local hardware store to look at the 1 inch tubing. You want to get the tubing that has the built-in female end, since that provides about two inches of overlapping. If you use the female-female couplings, you only have about an inch of overlap for both poles (which I've heard can be problematic since you need to bend the hoop quite a bit and can lead to poles popping out).

I decided that $50 was too much to spend and was thinking about using the female-female couplings. But then I went to another local store that had the 20 foot lengths (with the built-in female connecter) and they said they could cut the PVC for me (using a big cross-cut saw) as well as only charge me by the foot. They ended up charging me $26 for the cut PVC and rebar together. (Another hint is that if you need to cut the PVC, use a hacksaw instead of a pipe-cutter, since the pipe-cutter might cause damage to the joint somehow... this is hearsay as well). The individual pieces ended up being 50 inches long (4 feet + 2 inches for overlap). (I don't think that they actually overlap 2 inches, but it is close).
(For the mathematically inclined here's the formula to get the exact length 8*a - 7*b = 32 (8 pieces of pvc total length of a, minus 7 times the length of the overlapping intersections (b) should come to 32 feet. Plug in b and solve for a. For 50 inch sections, it comes out that the overlap should be 2.5 inches, which is about an inch too long but oh well...)
My rebar came rusted, so I also bought a wire brush and some rust-resistant paint to paint it with. Spent ten minutes brushing it, then paint a few layers on it.
Buy a couple sets of cones and you should be good to go.
Here's a few hints for setting up the field:

Enjoy your new kit. I played with my family (some of whom had played some recreation ultimate before), all had a good time, and many commented that they liked it better than ultimate.
You should probably add a photo of your disassembled kit to make it really
clear what you've put together.
Matt,
Hey Thanks for the Blog......I searched for "How to make a Goaltimate Kit"
and your blog was the only one I could find, other than the $200 jobs.
You say to avoid the female-female couplings - have you noticed that the
female-male pipe works better? If so, why?
Oops. You can ignore that question. I read a little more closely this
time.
You may want to consider revising your next hoop to use an odd number of
pole segments as this will make a stronger hoop. The point on the pole with
the highest stress is at the top of the arch - in your design this point is
a joint - making it the most failure prone. Most top quality tents us odd
segmented poles for this same reason.
Hey thanks, this really helped. I just got done building and putting up my
kit. One thing I recommend is when you first put it in, is that you hammer
the joints in, I had a lot of hit and misses till i realized I should
hammer those in and it really helped. My kit costed me $16 and you saved me
lots on money doing this and I would like to thank you again. I got some
pictures if anyone wants to see it :)
A used golf bag (from Goodwill) works great for lugging around my homemade
set